Read Your Indulgence

Destinations: Gibraltar // Rock Hard

September 6, 2016

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Quick history lesson: After the War of the Spanish Succession, British forces triumphed over Spain. One of the spoils was a tiny, seven-mile spur of land on the southern Spanish coast that might be small geographically, but loomed huge strategically. You see, pre-Sinai Canal, to control Gibraltar was to control everything going in and out of the Mediterranean. Granted “in perpetuity” to Britain in 1713, this little pipsqueak of a territory has been obstinately British ever since. And BOY, does Spain not like that…

Of course, you’ve heard of Gibraltar — as in “the Rock of.” Famed as one of the legendary Pillars of Hercules, the limestone mountain is one of the most famous landscapes on the planet, and the definite first stop in the exploration of this politically British islet awash in a Spanish sea. How can it not? It takes up most of the room, squeezing humanity between its base and the Mediterranean.
The current snit between Spain and the UK over “Gib” is just one in a long line of snits. And the good thing about snits is that they usually end up making some really cool backdrops. Military history soaks Gibraltar, and not just recent history. For over 700 years, Gibraltar was neither Spanish nor British, but Moorish. From them comes the eponymous Moorish Castle, which in reality is a whole complex of fortifications and ruins built from 711 to 1333. The most famous is the Tower of Homage, which to this day bares the scars of artillery fire. Lit up like fire at night, the Tower has spectacular views in the daylight.
Gibraltar is as historic below as it is above. Caves riddle the Rock, from the holy St. Michael’s Cave, to Gorham’s Cave, the last hold-out of the Neanderthals (Gibraltar has layers, to be sure). Take the Mediterranean Steps to the summit and not only will you have conquered the Rock, you will have had a leg workout like you’ve never had before. And keep an eye out: You may come across a band of Gibraltar macaques, the only species of monkey native to Europe.
After all the climbing, comes nightfall means heading over to Casemates Square, the hub of Gib’s nocturnal activity. There are no official gay bars in Gibraltar, which is not so much for Gibraltar’s lack of tolerance as it for the fact that Spain, regularly voted as one of the gay-friendliest countries on the planet, is right next door. But like a lot of places in the Mediterranean, every club is going to have a gay contingent. All’s Well and and the Eclipse Lounge are good places to start.
And for God’s sake, don’t bring up the Spain-Britain thing as an opening line.
For more info, go to visitgibraltar.gior contact Steele Luxury Travel for luxury booking assistance at 646-688-2274.